Cold weather AEG

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Cold weather AEG

Postby weasle8877 » Fri Apr 16, 2010 11:23 am

I need to know what gearbox will work the best at extreme low tempureture, what batteries to use, hop-ups, platforms that are useable with gloves, recivers that won't crack, the whole nine yards of building a cold weather AEG. I was thinking along the lines of a Steyr AUG platform, but I thought I'd ask the community for some helpful insight.
EDIT: by the way, cold means Alaska cold. Although I doubt that I'll be playing in anything below -10 or -20.
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Re: Cold weather AEG

Postby Abe » Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:21 pm

weasle8877 wrote:I need to know what gearbox will work the best at extreme low tempureture, what batteries to use, hop-ups, platforms that are useable with gloves, recivers that won't crack, the whole nine yards of building a cold weather AEG. I was thinking along the lines of a Steyr AUG platform, but I thought I'd ask the community for some helpful insight.
EDIT: by the way, cold means Alaska cold. Although I doubt that I'll be playing in anything below -10 or -20.


I don't know about the AUG, but my friend Jake who lives in alaska uses a classic army m15 year round. I have also used my KWA in the winter there. The only problem ANY of my old time friends from Alaska had, was a freezing battery.

EDIT: everything was stock on the guns at the time.

Just thought I would give you that little bit of input.
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Postby JD_Shadow1 » Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:35 pm

Saw is ultimate gear box, will stand up to anything and cold weather has no effect. lol

but yeah, the problem normally is with the battery dying out due to the cold. and the weakest imo is the version 2. if you dry fire that thing in 20degree f or below weather your looking at blowing off the front of it. lol
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Postby DJ » Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:54 pm

The big issue with airsoft ( and just about everything else) is that when an object gets cold it contracts thus reducing tolerances. In speaking with some of the folks from Spokane (Precision airsoft) the cold really can do bad things to gearboxes. It also diminishes battery longevity. With GBB the gas does the same thing. Less volume & velocity. My recommendation, call an airsoft dealer that regularly operates in the cold., Precision or some other dealer in easterm WA or the northern climate.
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Postby Abe » Fri Apr 16, 2010 1:12 pm

I remember that there was a small yet not cheap end airsoft shop about 30 minutes away from Kenai, Alaska. I will ask one of the friends if they have the number so you could ask him/her some questions if you have anymore.
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Postby ogrejager » Fri Apr 16, 2010 1:33 pm

Google is your friend. Seriously.

Try asking these guys.

http://airsoftalaska.com/forums/
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Postby weasle8877 » Fri Apr 16, 2010 3:52 pm

Thanks for the input, and for the record, I have an acount on AA but forgot the password. Does anyone know of reliable batteries?
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Postby darkaces07 » Fri Apr 16, 2010 3:59 pm

weasle8877 wrote:Thanks for the input, and for the record, I have an acount on AA but forgot the password. Does anyone know of reliable batteries?
flight max lipos are good. If you get a gun and it has a full stock you could throw one of those hand warmer packets into the stock
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Postby DMitri » Fri Apr 16, 2010 4:04 pm

I wouldn't do that. Insulating your stock with something fireproof would be a much smarter choice. Adding more flammable chemicals to a compartment next to your face is unnecessary. Although, if they specifically say they are fireproof that's a little different, but I would still suggest shielding from the cold over applying heat to the battery.

Lithium will provide the best temperature range, though, along with allowing more room for said insulation.
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Postby darkaces07 » Fri Apr 16, 2010 4:14 pm

DMitri wrote:I wouldn't do that. Insulating your stock with something fireproof and that doesn't conduct heat/cold would be a much smarter choice. Adding more flammable chemicals to a compartment next to your face is unnecessary. Although, if they specifically say they are fireproof that's a little different, but I would still suggest shielding from the cold over applying heat to the battery.

Lithium will provide the best temperature range, though, along with allowing more room for said insulation.
Yea now that I think about it that would be a bad idea. Like DMitri said insulate the stock with something like the foam you can buy from home depot and walmart then hollow out a space for your battery and wires
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Postby league 4 » Fri Apr 16, 2010 6:43 pm

Lithium polymer batteries and something with a strong gearbox shell.. That's it, really.
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Postby weasle8877 » Sat Apr 17, 2010 1:27 am

Does anyone know if those new lithium iron batteries are as resilient to the cold as a regular lithium poly? Also, since i was thinking AUG, does anyone know if ABS gets brittle at low temp.?
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Postby rockettravis » Sat Apr 17, 2010 2:48 am

kwa+V2/V3+cold=fail
G&P+V2+cold=fail
I played at SA for years and worked at precisionairsoft.com for one year. I recommend anything without a metal hopup and a solid Nicad or Lipo battery. It realy depends on how low your temperature gets.
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Postby weasle8877 » Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:28 am

Ok, so aim for a plastic hop up. What about the bucking, will silicone work? Also with metal condenceing, would a tight-bore possibly shrink causeing frequent jamming. Right now I'm thinking some AK variant; it has a v3, wood and steel, room for insulation in stock, and mast have plastic hop-ups.
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